Textiles
The production of textiles has the largest environmental impact for textiles. The environmental impact can be decreased by setting requirements in public procurement aiming at longer lifespan for textiles. Decisions made prior to the formulation of procurement documents may have a large impact on whether the textile can be reused or recycled. There is a web based guide (is Swedish, under introduction) to show ways to reach longer lifespan for textiles.
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| Wastewater treatment plant in production | Core | Technical specification | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information The largest environmental impact from textiles comes from production. Requirements on wastewater treatment reduce emissions from textile production. Criterion text Production facilities that generate wastewater shall be connected to a wastewater treatment plant. The requirement covers at least the process steps of dyeing and preparation of the main component of the textile.1 The treatment plant shall be on-site where the process step is performed or off-site in the form of a municipal or other external treatment plant. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Wastewater treatment in production | Advanced | Technical specification | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information The largest environmental impact from textiles comes from production. Requirements on wastewater treatment reduce emissions from textile production. Criterion text For wastewater1 treated in the production plant, and discharged directly into the recipient, the following shall be met:
The requirement covers at least the process steps of dyeing, and preparation in the production of the main component3 of the textile. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Reuse of textiles | Core | Special contract terms | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information Reuse contributes to more circular handling of textiles that are no longer used. Criterion text The supplier shall, in consultation with the contracting organization, decide which not worn-out textiles in the procuring range that can be taken back by the supplier for reuse1. [At the start of the contract or other time decided by the contracting organization], the supplier shall be invited to a meeting with the contracting organization for dialogue and decision on which textiles are to be included. The supplier shall take back these textiles for the entire lifespan of the textile. The supplier shall be able to annually report the amount of textiles returned in kilograms and which organizations that have received the textiles for reuse. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Recycling of textiles | Core | Special contract terms | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information Recycling of textiles contributes to more circular handling of end-of-life textiles. Criterion text The supplier shall, in consultation with the contracting organization, decide which worn-out textiles in the procuring range that can be taken back by the supplier for recycling1. [At the start of the contract or other time decided by the contracting organization], the supplier shall be invited to a meeting with the contracting organization for dialogue and decision on which textiles are to be included. The supplier shall take back these textiles for the entire lifespan of the textile. The supplier shall be able to annually report the amount of textile returned in kilograms and which organizations that have received the textiles for recycling. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Quality assurance procedures | Core | Qualification requirement | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information To fulfil the requirements in the contract, the supplier shall have documented routines for quality assurance. Criterion text The supplier of the products delivered according to the contract shall have routines for systematic quality work. The routines shall be documented, at least include the activities covered by the contract and shall be applied during the contract period. The systematic quality work shall include at least the following points:
Upon request, the supplier shall be able to prove that the requirement has been met. If the supplier applies its own documented system, [The contracting organization] may request that the information is verified by an independent third party. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Content of Substances of Very High Concern (the Candidate List) | Core | Special contract terms | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information This contract term minimizes content of the environmentally and health-hazardous chemicals listed on the candidate list in the EU chemicals legislation Reach. Criterion text Textiles delivered under the contract shall not contain substances included on the current candidate list (Article 59 of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH)) in levels above 0.1 weight percent (1000 mg/kg) per substance. 0.1 weight percent refers to each individual part of a product1. If new substances are entered on the candidate list during the contract period, the supplier shall within six months of the European Chemicals Agency's (ECHA) publication of a revised candidate list present an action plan on how the substances can be phased out. The action plan is presented to the contracting authority upon request. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Coloring agents and pigments | Core | Technical specification | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information The purpose of the requirement is to limit environmentally and health-hazardous dyes and pigments in textiles. Criterion text The dyes and pigments listed in the table below shall not be present in the textiles delivered under the contract in levels higher than 50 mg/kg textile for each individual substance.
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| Formaldehyde | Core | Technical specification | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information Formaldehyde has health-hazardous properties such as toxic, sensitizing, can cause genetic defects and can cause cancer. The requirement limits the content of formaldehyde emitted from textiles. Criterion text The content of free and partly hydrolysable1 formaldehyde (CAS 50-00-0) shall not exceed 75 mg/kg (75 ppm) in the textiles delivered under the contract. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Formaldehyde | Advanced | Technical specification | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information Formaldehyde has health-hazardous properties such as toxic, sensitizing, can cause genetic defects and can cause cancer. The requirement limits the content of formaldehyde emitted from textiles. Criterion text The content of free and partly hydrolysable1 formaldehyde (CAS 50-00-0) shall not exceed 20 mg/kg (20 ppm) in the textiles delivered under the contract. Exception Protective clothing covered by Regulation (EU) 2016/425 “Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)” is exempt from the requirement. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Plasticizers in coatings and printing | Core | Technical specification | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information The purpose of the requirement is to limit environmentally and health-hazardous substances in coatings and prints on textiles. Criterion text The sum of the plasticizers listed in the table below shall not exceed 0.1 weight percent (1000 mg/kg textile) for textiles delivered under the contract with a coating/surface layer and/or printing.
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| Limitation of biocidal products (antimicrobial function) | Core | Technical specification | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information Textiles treated with biocidal products may contain environmentally and health hazardous substances. With this requirement biocidal treated articles are avoided. Criterion text Textiles delivered under the contract shall not be treated with biocidal products1,2. Exception Textiles where biocidal function is specifically requested as a function such as ambulance clothing. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Requirements under the ILO core conventions | Core | Special contract terms | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information The contract terms on the basic level aim to ensure that the supplier has effective risk management regarding workers' rights under the ILO core conventions in its own operation as well as in the supply chain regarding subcontractors who are directly involved in the performance of the contract. Criterion text 1. The supplier's obligation Throughout the entire contract period, the supplier shall apply the contract terms under item 1-4. The contract shall be fulfilled in accordance with the following terms regarding workers’ rights:
The terms regarding workers’ rights are called “the Terms” hereafter. In the event of the core conventions of the ILO are in conflict with national law, the supplier shall take reasonable measures to ensure compliancy with the international regulations. The obligations concerns workers when they perform work within the frame of the contract. The supplier shall, according to item 2, ensure that the Terms are fulfilled by hired subcontractors that directly contribute to the performance of the contract, regardless of the number of intermediaries. In addition, the supplier shall ensure that these subcontractors participate in the follow-up, The obligations concerns work carried out under such conditions where Swedish labour law is not applicable. 2. Policies and routines To fulfil the obligations under item 1, the supplier shall take measures to prevent and manage any deviations from the Terms according to item 2.1-2.6 below. The measures shall be documented and applied throughout the entire contract period in their own operation and the operation of any subcontractors who directly contribute to the performance of the contract, regardless of the number of intermediaries. At the start of the contract the supplier shall have: 2.1 adopted a commonly accessible policy, adopted by the highest management including a commitment to respect the Terms, 2.2. adopted routines to convey their commitment to respect the Terms in their own operation and in the supply chain, 2.3 appointed a manager at the highest management level, responsible for compliance with the Terms, 2.4 adopted routines to regularly carry out risk analyses, i.e. to identify and prioritise current and potential risks of deviation from the Terms, as well as mapping the supply chain with special regard to high risk operations, 2.5 adopted routines for regular follow-up of the Terms compliance, and 2.6 adopted routines to immediate action to prevent and limit deviations from the Terms, and to make amendments to identified deviations. The measures shall be taken in accordance with the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights, or the equivalent. 3. Follow-up [The contracting authority] has the right to follow-up that the supplier fulfils its obligations. The follow-up may be carried out in different steps; self-assessment and audit. 3.1 Self-assessment 3.2 Audit 4. Management of deficiencies If the supplier does not participate in follow-up or if there are deficiencies in the documentation to be provided under item 3, a correction shall be made within the time determined by [the contracting authority]. In case of deficiencies in compliance to the Terms, the supplier shall amend this according to a schedule and action plan, developed by the supplier, and to be approved by [the contracting authority]. The schedule and action plan are to be developed within the time period decided by [the contracting authority] and must be proportionate to the nature of the deficiencies and clearly describe how these are to be remedied within the established schedule. [The contracting authority] has the right to terminate the contract with immediate effect if the supplier do not make amendments within the established period or do not remedy deficiencies within the established [The contracting authority] has the right to terminate the contract with immediate effect in the case of severe deviations from the Terms. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Sustainable supply chains | Advanced | Special contract terms | All textiles | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information The terms regarding sustainable supply chains aim to ensure that the supplier has efficient risk management in their own operation and in the supply chain, covering the areas human rights, labour rights, environmental protection and anti-corruption. Criterion text 1. The supplier’s obligation Throughout the entire contract period, the supplier shall apply the contract terms under item 1-4. The contract shall be fulfilled in accordance with the following terms regarding human rights, workers’ rights, environmental protection, and anti-corruption (sustainable supply chains):
The terms regarding sustainable supply chains are called “the Terms” hereafter. When international regulations prescribe a stronger protection for the individual than the national legislation, the supplier shall take reasonable measures to ensure compliancy with the international regulations. The obligations concerns all operations connected to the performance of the contract. The supplier shall, according to item 2, ensure that the Terms are fulfilled by hired subcontractors in all parts of the supply chain. In addition, the supplier shall ensure that these subcontractors participate in the follow-up, according to item 3. 2. Policies and routines To fulfil the obligations under item 1, the supplier shall take measures to prevent and manage any deviations from the Terms according to item 2.1-2.6 below. The measures shall be documented and applied concurrently throughout the entire contract period in their own operation as well as in the operation of any subcontractors in all parts of the supply chain. At the start of the contract the supplier shall have: 2.1 adopted a commonly accessible policy, adopted by the highest management including a commitment to respect the Terms, 2.2. adopted routines to convey their commitment to respect the Terms in their own operation and in the supply chain, 2.3 appointed a manager at the highest management level, responsible for compliance with the Terms, 2.4 adopted routines to regularly carry out risk analyses, i.e. to identify and prioritise current and potential risks of deviation from the Terms, as well as mapping the supply chain with special regard to high risk operations, 2.5 adopted routines for regular follow-up of the Terms compliance, and 2.6 adopted routines to immediate action to prevent and limit deviations from the Terms, and to make amendments to identified deviations. The measures shall be taken in accordance with the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights, or the equivalent. 3. Follow-up [The contracting authority] has the right to follow-up that the supplier fulfils its obligations. The follow-up may be carried out in different steps; self-assessment and audit. 3.1 Self-assessment 3.2 Audit 4. Management of deficiencies If the supplier does not participate in follow-up or if there are deficiencies in the documentation to be provided under item 3, a correction shall be made within the time determined by [the contracting authority]. In case of deficiencies in compliance to the Terms, the supplier shall amend this according to a schedule and action plan, developed by the supplier, and to be approved by [the contracting authority]. The schedule and action plan are to be developed within the time period decided by [the contracting authority] and must be proportionate to the nature of the deficiencies and clearly describe how these are to be remedied within the established schedule. [The contracting authority] has the right to terminate the contract with immediate effect if the supplier do not make amendments within the established period or do not remedy deficiencies within the established [The contracting authority] has the right to terminate the contract with immediate effect in the case of severe deviations from the Terms. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Flame retardants in textiles where flame retardant function are requested | Core | Technical specification | Supplement for textiles with special functions | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information By using the requirement, environmentally and health-hazardous flame retardants in textiles are limited. Criterion text In textiles with flame retardant function delivered under the contract, the substances listed in the table below shall not be present in levels above 5 mg/kg textile.
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| Water repellent and waterproof function in textiles where such a function is required | Core | Technical specification | Supplement for textiles with special functions | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Criterion information Textiles with water-repellent or waterproof function shall not be treated with environmentally and health-hazardous substances on the candidate list but can be treated with other substances to achieve their function. Criterion text In textiles with water-repellent or waterproof function delivered under the contract, perfluorinated substances or cyclic siloxanes on the current candidate list (Article 59 of Regulation (EC) 1907/2006 on the Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH)) shall not be included in levels above 100 mg/kg textile. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The largest environmental impact comes from the production of textiles. where large amounts of raw materials, energy, water and chemicals are used. The total environmental impact can be reduced by increasing the lifespan of the textiles.
Link to web support on textiles (only in Swedish).
In the web support, it appears that the environmental impact of textile procurement is largely influenced by the decisions that are made before the tender documents are drawn up. It is therefore important to prepare the procurement before the sustainability criteria are used. Analyse the needs, have a dialogue with possible suppliers and then make a strategic decision about what is to be procured. The following questions are important to answer:
• Do we need to procure or are there products in the organization that can cover the need?
• What functions should the textiles have to fulfil our needs?
• Should we own or rent the textiles?
• Should we procure reusable or disposable textiles?
• Should we procure reused or new textiles?
When the questions are answered, the sustainability criteria can be used to achieve further sustainability effects. The sustainability criteria sets requirements on the use of chemicals that can affect the working environment and the environment during manufacturing, and can also be included in the finished product. There are also requirements on sewage treatment and requirements on collection and reuse of textiles.
Working conditions in the textile industry have in some cases shown not to live up to the basic conditions set by the ILO (International Labor Organization) in its core principles. Therefore, the sustainability criteria also include requirements and terms on these.